We started at the little hat symbol in Pampa Linda and rode north on the trail across the Rio Castano Overa and along the Rio Alerce to the little tent symbol near the northern edge of the map. The ride was about 10 kilometers each way, and took about 2 and a half hours each way.
We rode in the cold rain through a beautiful forest. Each of us had our own horse and we were accompanied by our guide Eduardo and three intrepid dogs. Because it was early season, the trail was muddy and the river was swollen. The water in the river was stunningly, almost unbelievably, crystal clear, achingly cold, and the banks were full. The trail crossed the river several times, with each crossing being dramatic and memorable. In places, the mud on the trail was deep, and difficult for the horses to navigate.
Here is Jordy's account of riding his horse through the water and mud:
It was very scary. Before we did it, Veneno would slip on the mud into the river then (what more could happen than that?) Veneno (my horse) would slip and slide on the rocks below. One time it went up to the saddle! On the trail there were spots of mud, Veneno (translates to poison, who knows why my horse was named that?) would always go in them, and mud went all the way up his leg. (Thank God I'm not him!)
The End
And here is Xander's account:
Urge it on
Vectors again
steer slightly upstream
nerve racking
"Don't break your ankle on the rocks, Jacinto!"
What would happen if I fell in?
cold belly, poor horse, poor Jasinto
lift your feet up high so they don't get wet
look for the shallowest place
Mud up to the horses knee? Yes, that is what it was like. We would have to guide our horses on the side of the trail and make sure that we wouldn't poke our eyes out on weird bamboo stuff (thankfully the guide would machete most of it out of the way). Jasinto, my horse, unlike all the other horses really liked the mud. That was a problem because it was scary when we'd sink in the mud. Going up or down little hills and slipping on the way made me nervous. Mud played a big part in this horse ride.
Calicasi (my horse) was apprehensive as he approached the bank to cross. I needed to kick him to urge him on. His apprehension made me nervous. Was this hard for him? Was I too heavy for him? Was he going to trip and get swept downstream into the strainers? Should I be wearing a lifejacket? Will Cath and the boys be ok? Would I be able to help them if any of them got swept away?
As we entered the cold swift water, I scouted the river. Did everybody else get across safely? Where was the shallowest line across? What was downstream? Swift current? Strainers? I'm pretty sure that Calicasi already knew the best way across but I wondered. Did I need to be steering him? To be safe, I steered towards the shallowest water, and towards the trail on the other side. As we got to know each other during the day, I got better at identifying the routes he liked. Or did I just get used to the way he was taking me? How much was I actually doing? Was I a driver or a hood ornament?
In the river, Calicasi's hooves slipped on the loose rocks of the riverbed. Good thing he had four feet. The current pulled at him. It looked and felt like hard work. It had to be painfully cold for him. As we neared the center of the river the water got deeper and deeper. My feet dipped into the frigid water. I thought about lifting them to keep them dry, but I decided it would be better to be more stable even if my feet were colder. If my feet were too high and Calicasi stumbled it was easy to imagine getting pitched into the icy water. As the day went on, I got more comfortable and confident, and I did start lifting my feet a little bit. At that point, though, they were already wet and numb so it didn't seem to matter so much.
As I grew more comfortable with Calicasi, I began to appreciate the fun and adventure of the crossings. What an amazing feeling to be carried across a river by such a strong and graceful creature. The water was so transparent that you could clearly gauge the depth, and easily see each rock on the bottom. Calicasi gave me an amazing magic carpet ride; what a unique feeling.
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